The Windamere
I have never thought that a “colonial-style”
experience was something worth aspiring to. Why on earth in
21st century, modern India would it still be relevant? The
Windamere Hotel in Darjeeling prides itself on the fact that
it has changed little since it was built as lodgings for tea
plantation managers from Britain at the height of the British
Empire. So, I was curious to discover if it was clinging onto
a bygone age, attracting a clientele that rued the passing
of the Raj.
Darjeeling, 2000 metres up in the foothills of the Himalayas,
was created by the Raj as a very British mountain retreat
where the imperial administration in Calcutta could take refuge
from the fierce Indian summers of the plain. All the reasons
why the British chose this spot – its soothing climate,
the fresh air and heavenly views of the Himalayas –
remain the exact same attractions for the modern tourist.
The British also found out that if you grew tea here, it proved
to be quite splendid. But if Darjeeling is British in character,
it is Himalayan in essence, defined by the surrounding mountain
kingdoms of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and Tibet
So it’s a hill station, and the first thing you should
know is that once you have arrived at the nearest town in
the plains below, you have the choice of either a three and
a half hour uphill slalom in a 4X4 on crumbling mountain roads
or eight long hours on the world famous Darjeeling Himalayan
Railway or “toy train”, a glorious feat of engineering
that appears to defy common sense. As the heat slips away
however, and the views becomes more and more breathtaking,
it all begins to make more sense.
If Darjeeling is a perfect spot in the Himalayas, then the
Windamere is the perfect spot in Darjeeling, on Observatory
Hill. The hotel is spread out between the main square (a fascinating
window on local life), and the flag-covered temples at the
peak of the hill, which is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists.
On arrival it was evident that the Windamere was not going
to be a slice of the Raj in stasis or a stuffy museum piece
with a Victorian attitude problem. Instead, what I found was
a faultlessly run, elegantly comfortable, tranquil and surprisingly
romantic hotel. It looks Victorian and feels Edwardian and
the atmosphere is one you can slowly sink into like a favourite
armchair. Its sense of history and ceremony is part of its
identity rather than an attitude, largely because the Windamere
has been a central part of what Darjeeling was, and is.
The furniture is all period and immaculately cared for, there
are no televisions and the phones were only put in as a grudging
concession to modernity in 1954. In any case, they have never
worked properly. There are 37 rooms housed in a handful of
lodges that were originally designed as lodgings. The result
is plenty of space with fabulous cast-iron, claw-footed baths,
real fires and possibly the most comfortable hotel bed my
weary head as ever experienced; all this for $165 per night
for room and meals.
Now as you might expect, drinking tea is not a flippant act
in these parts so everyday at four o’clock, the champagne
of teas is served with cucumber sandwiches from silver tea
pots borne by Tibetan staff in crisp linen. It’s strange.
Tea’s never been a ritual for me but you don’t
half miss all the fuss once you’ve left. And yes, the
Darjeeling tea is the best tea you will drink in your life.
The food at the Windamere is unashamedly comforting and traditional.
A typical day would be porridge for breakfast and roast beef
for dinner, followed by apple crumble and custard for pudding.
An Indian menu is always offered as well and this was simple,
tasty – and my preferred choice.
You can tell a good hotel from its staff and here the staff
are relaxed yet formal, unpretentious. This is because the
Windamere is not trying to be anything other than what it
is. It isn’t hip, cutting edge, lavish or at all intrusive
– thankfully. In all honesty, it might not have changed
much over the years, but that might be because they knew what
was good for you the first time round. When you’ve got
it right, why change?
- http://www.travelchannel.co.uk/features/hotel_Dec06.htm
Other : The world's best colonial hotel
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